With the following Spring-Summer fashion shows now in full swing we explore the NYFW SS17 scene to get a glimpse of what to except for the following season. We know it’s still a bit early to draw conclusions but there are already some shows and looks we definitely love.
Best defined by effortlessly luxurious and pared-back designs, The Row’s designers, Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen kept things tasteful and intimate in their presentation for SS17, that took place in their New York store.
To upgrade the level of surprise, the collection was viewed by only a small group of quests and it will be available to the eyes of the public only when the clothes will hit the stores next year.
Staged beautifully, the show included models like Heather Kemesky and Jamie Bochert that weaved through each of the store’s rooms. They paused on small podiums and then ended lined up on the store’s spiral stair case while guests looked on from velvet couches.
We are truly in love with the details of the collection: oversize shapes in shades of khaki, cream, and black; the ruffled, backless slipdresses layered over trousers and the cherry on top: every look was grounded by simple sneakers.
We were very curious to discover what Thom Browne had up his sleeve for this season’s presentation. For his Spring-Summer 2017 collection, the space where the show took place had been covered in multicolored tile and we were left feeling like we were sitting at the bottom of an empty pool.
The models walked in all at once wearing oversized identical coats and matching swim cap-like hats. Then, at the same time, they revealed their underneath dresses in black and white or nuances of shiny pastels.
As usual, Browne put a lot of accent on the craftiness of its looks: the weave of ribbons, the topstitch or other remarkable artisanal elements.
Thom Browne has a courageous approach on sunglasses, as he deliveres colorful statement frames. He played a lot with shapes and was inspired by the aquatic universe.
In the third level of the show, the models unzipped their dresses from behind and they were left standing in matching red, white and blue swimsuits. Men dressed as birds came to collect the wardrobe detritus, and a goddess dressed in sequin silver took her place at the center of the tableau, her dog-shaped chapeau lighting up like a disco ball. WOW!
The set: a runway covered in sand and strewn with petals looking like a deserted beach at the dusk.
The collections cited Victorian elements and ‘90s vibes, having sexy urban surfer feeling. Floral pieces, jacket cut dresses, scuba suit trimmings and high rise necklines were a welcome proposition that made the idea of bringing laid-back, beach vibes into a working wardrobe a much more tangible option.
The looks where paired with sleek aviator frames, that gave the collection a sleek vibe. Phillip Lim played with the shape and opted for an urban take on the frames, featuring sunset orange and dark shades of the lenses.
“they threw things at me then but they were not roses”
Gloria Steinem (an American feminist, journalist, and social and political activist) had pride of place on Prabal Gurung’s Spring mood board. An elegant and powerful statement. Thus, on the runway, one bias-cut silk dress was printed in finely wrought script with famous speeches by prominent women, and others were trimmed in grosgrain ribbon on which quotes were spelled out in black ink.
For Spring-Summer 2017, Victoria Beckham made us fall in love with luscious colors: peppermint and lilac, orange, navy, white, all being topped by delicate floral motifs. She didn’t play it safe as she mixed it all with different textures like silk, velvet and chiffon.
“I do like to make things difficult for myself and my team, just from taking on a challenge if you like. The velvet for example, I haven’t worked velvet for such a long time, because it’s something that normally feels old and heavy, but this is something which is super light and in bright colours.” – Victoria Beckham for The Telegraph
It reminded us of seascapes – an easy going collection with an effortless, thrown-together feel.
Karen Walker is known for being unpredictable and we simply adore her for the creative takes she has on inspiration. This season she made a reference to Babou, the ocelot Salvador Dali kept as a pet and its imaginative journey from a jungle in Colombia to the city with the artist.
“Dalí acquired Babou in the 1960s, and for a time it was seen to accompany him, on a leash and stone studded collar, almost everywhere he went”
Walker extrapolated 1940s-inspired Latin-American folk aesthetics into urban looks. We saw leopard prints and Lurex jacquard, sweatshirts with pop-up wildcat graphics and jungle inspired flora and fauna prints.
The looks were topped with graphic thick aviator frames, featuring transparent lenses and round wire framed sunglasses that made the collection even more appealing.
runway photos: Vogue.com