Martin Margiela – the most illusory character in fashion is the protagonist of YOOX Group’s first outing as documentary producer. Directed by American filmmaker Alison Chernick, the 12 minutes short titled THE ARTIST IS ABSENT made it’s debut at this year’s Tribeca Film Festival.
The eponymous designer was one of the Antwerp Six, with fellows such as such as Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester or Walter van Beirendonck). A collective of European designers that manifested a distinct, radical vision for fashion during the 1980s.
THE ARTIST IS ABSENT has an intriguing narrative. It showcases elements of the house’s illusive founder, Martin Margiela, teased out through interviews with the likes of Suzy Menkes, Jean Paul Gaultier and Raf Simons.
Margiela is never photographed, and has never appeared on the catwalk post parade. Margiela is about fashion and design in its purest form: no glamour, no image, no
personal recognition. We were not surprised to see that the designer is nowhere to be seen trough the documentary. Yet, after Margiela’s eponymous fashion house has made recent headlines with the naming of John Galliano as creative director we intrigued that Galliano didn’t appear in the documentary.